Angra Dos Reis Guide

About a third of all leisure boats in Brazil are found in Angra dos Reis, and that's no coincidence. The area's 365 islands, islets, and cays are surrounded by aquamarine waters offering endless opportunities for diving, snorkeling, and nautical schmoozing. During the December-to-March high season, dozens of vessels converge at Praia do Dentista, a calm bay where boaters play music, mix cocktails, practice water sports, and make friends with neighboring revelers. A quieter scene awaits in Ilha Grande's Lagoa Azul, a cove whose impossibly blue waters compel everyone to just dive in. Closer to the mainland, Ilha do Bonfim makes for another interesting stop. This tiny speck of an island harbors a historic church built in 1870 by a Portuguese sailor who survived a shipwreck. No matter where you choose to drop anchor, Fasano's chartered yachts and schooners are stocked with drinks, snacks, fresh seafood, and every accoutrement needed for an enjoyable maritime jaunt.

The beautifully preserved 17th century town of Paraty, which was a gold-trading port during the Portuguese rule, has been a source of inspiration for painters, musicians, and writers. Paraty's narrow cobbled streets are lined with tiled-roof colonial houses whose colorful doors open into cozy cafés, candle-lit restaurants, and art spaces like C.A.N.O.A (18 Rua Dr. Samuel Costa, Centro Histórico, Paraty; +55-24-3371-1422), a gallery and shop featuring distinctive artworks and handicrafts made by indigenous communities living in remote areas of Brazil. In recent years, this scenic hideaway has evolved into the most culturally rich destination in Costa Verde, with a burgeoning calendar that includes music festivals, photography exhibits, and a notable literary series called Flip (www.flip.org.br), packed with cachaça-fueled parties and readings by star authors such as Ian McEwan and Isabel Allende.

Anyone visiting the Costa Verde should book a table at Crudo (Rodovia Governador Mario Covas, Km. 512; +55-24-3369-9500), Rogério Fasano's much-buzzed-about seafood restaurant. The inspiration for the recipes comes from Italy, but the ingredients are invariably from Angra. For a behind-the-scenes peek at the restaurant's hyper-local practices, hotel guests can spend an afternoon at a scallop farm in Ilha Grande, watching the mollusks being pulled from the sea and tasting them right out of the shell or lightly grilled. Up in the Serra da Graúna, a hill near Paraty, Le Gite d’Indaiatiba (Rodovia Rio Santos, Km. 562; Paraty; +55-24-9999-9923) is a casual eatery offering a delightful menu of French-Brazilian dishes like grilled sea bass with a creamy heart-of-palm sauce.

Fasano's guests (and residents of the adjacent FRAD.E residential complex) have direct access to the Boulevard Carlos Borges (Praia do Frade, Angra dos Reis), an intimate open-air shopping center surrounded by gardens. Find gorgeous bikinis and caftans at Sinesia Karol, a beachwear label that’s regularly featured on the Brazilian edition of Vogue magazine. Espaço Aberto is a home décor store with a tasteful selection of locally-made candle holders, ceramic plates, and woven baskets. Not many people know this, but Brazil produces a handful of high-quality wines. Pick up a bottle at Fradega, a wine boutique with a curated supply of national and international vinhos.

Angra dos Reis is largely covered by a rain forest called Mata Atlântica, an enclave of biodiversity full of vertiginous peaks, rugged trails, gushing waterfalls, and swimming ponds. Reaching the top of Pico do Frade—a relatively challenging hike up 5,000 feet of verdant paths, led by expert guides—rewards visitors with a striking bird's-eye view of the entire archipelago and the Serra da Bocaina National Park. For a more laid-back adventure, take a walk through the resort's lush, extensive grounds to reach the Cachoeira do Palmital, a secluded waterfall that cascades down massive boulders into a small and very refreshing natural pool.